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The
first successful ascent in 1954 started with over 500 porters, 11
climbers, and six scientists. One of the climbers died of pneumonia
after 40 days of raging storms. The final ascent was made by a team
of two after their oxygen supply had run out, and an emergency descent
was made in darkness.
K2
is the only major mountain in the world which has surveyor's notation
as its common name (K stands for Karakoram, 2 means it was the second
peak listed). T.G. Montgomery was the surveyor who assigned K-2
this designation in 1856. The mountain's remoteness had rendered
it invisible from any inhabited place, so apart from an occasional
local reference as Chogori (meaning Great Mountain), it had no other
name prior to Montgomery's survey. Since that time, the name Mount
Godwin-Austen has occasionally been used in honor of the man who
directed the survey. For the most part, K2 has been the name of
choice and has even evolved into Ketu, the name used by the Balti
people who act as porters in the region.
With
respect to the commentary on the Italian expedition which was the
first to summit K2 8611m in 1954, it has since been proven that
Compagnoni and Lacedelli did indeed have oxygen until they reached
the summit of K2. The myth was dispelled through libel proceedings
brought on by climber Walter Bonatti, who had been accused of sabotaging
the expedition by keeping the oxygen for himself. The best evidence
available in a properly translated format can be found in the latest
edition of “The Mountains of My Life” by Bonatti, or
the short book entitled “Trial on K2”.
K2 is a rocky mountain up to 6,000m, beyond which it becomes an
ocean of snow. The traditional route to K2's base camp goes from
Skardu, which is linked with Islamabad by a good road. From Skardu
the route goes via Shigar-Dassu-Askole up to Concordia over the
Baltoro glacier.
K2
was firstly discovered and measured by the Survey of India in 1856,
and first named for English topographer Henry Godwin - Austen, who
explored and surveyed the region.
K2
is taken from the first letter of Karakorum, and the number indicates
that it was the second peak in the range to be measured. K2 was
firstly climbed on July,31 1954 by Italian climbers team lead by
Ardito Desio and accompanying him were Lino Lacedelli and Achille
Compagnoni. A March 1987 measurement of K2 indicated that it might
be higher than Everest, but later that year, Everest was re-measured
by a similar method and found to indeed be 778 ft (237m) taller.
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